Upstate New York has rightfully earned a negative reputation for bad weather. It can be apocalyptic during most of the year. As a morning news reporter in Syracuse I covered a huge snow storm on…April 21. (!!)
Let’s ignore the lake effect snow and focus on the WINE! Wine touring the Finger Lakes is a great experience.
Photo ops are plentiful in the Finger Lakes
This is a fun, low-key area that appeals to a wide range of wine drinkers including the novice. No one will judge you if you wear your baseball cap that says in bedazzled letters “group therapy” with various pictures of sparkly wine bottles and glasses. But cork dorks can find their own enjoyment, too. Winery owners often serve the tastes so in between sips you can ask a million questions of the people who probably just tended to the grapes . That one-on-one interaction is something you won’t find in Napa!
Something else you would never see in Napa is the price per tasting. Of the dozens of wine tastings—ok, possibly 100s, can I say 100s? Sure. Ok, so of the hundreds of wine tastings that I have experienced in the Finger Lakes none of them has cost more than $5. That price gives you 4 to 10 tastings off of the list. You try 17 wines at Chateau LaFayette Reneau (Seneca Lake) for $5. The most renowned winery Dr. Konstantin Frank (Keuka Lake) is…free. I love free! I also love their dry riesling. Mmm!
This region deserves more than one blog entry because there are nearly 100 wineries sprinkled over three of the main “fingers” (Keuka, Seneca, Cayuga). I’ve compiled the local favorites, but don’t hesitate to try other wineries along the way. You’ll like see several party vans of all colors—use that as a guide (to either follow the crowd or avoid it). It goes without saying that you MUST have a bus, van or a designated driver because the roads are windy and the pours are not small. The Moms and Pops up here are serious about giving away so much wine that you’ll drunkenly buy cases of their stuff.
Places that I’ve had the best experiences mixed in with the best wine are the following:
Dr. Frank Konstantin, Keuka Lake. Tight quarters, higher-prices for bottles, but (as I mentioned) free tastings. It’s happened more than once that the friendly tasting manager has chugged the remainder of the dry riesling bottle in order to share in the fun. Pretentious? Heck no! There is an outdoor deck where you will quickly realize that every winery has a view up here.
Fox Run, Seneca Lake. I love the bright, airy feel to this winery. My favorite choice has been the “sable” which is a cabernet franc/merlot blend. It’s a good beginner red. Typically wine drinkers start with sweet whites and eventually mature to dry reds. This is a sweeter red than will gently take your hand from whites into the serious stuff. Fox Run’s cafe is open daily April through December. Food is so crucial on these all-day wine tours! Trust me! Eat up! Many cafes like this one serve local produce and cheeses.
Belhurst Castle, Seneca Lake. Some places you visit for the wine. This place you visit for the ambiance. Order a glass of wine from the servers; grab an adirondack chair around the firepit; and cozy up with old friends and new ones. The historic castle is haunted–so they say—and there is a hidden tunnel leading to the lake—so they say. (I prefer to believe it as the moon comes out and the fire flickers. Go with it.) There is a wedding hall and many hotel rooms in the original castle and additions. Last time I was there my group of four turned into a group of 10 after we befriended so many hotel guests!
Glenora, Cayuga Lake. I frequented Cayuga because I went to Ithaca College which is at the base of this lake in the city of Ithaca. (Yes, Cornell is there, too.) I want to mention Glenora for one AMAZING glass of bubbly. It’s their Peach Spumante. I can close my eyes and taste the fruity start, then the effervescence hitting the back of my throat and then the lovely drier finish. If I were planning a wedding in the Finger Lakes I would serve this during cocktail hour.
Americana Vineyards, Cayuga Lake. This is where I fell in love with red wine as a budding oenophile. Of course the love affair begins with a sweeter varietal. Sweet is what Finger Lakes does best. Americana has two: revolutionary red (which now is a bit TOO sweet for me, but the perfect bottle for the “i only drink white wine” person) and Baco Noir. This place also encompasses what this wine region is all about: family-owned, small town wineries that are really proud of their products. It’s not fancy; it’s earthy. It’s not lavish gates; it’s a muddy gravel parking lots. Sometimes you just want to wear flipflops, hop on a bus with your buddies and taste some really interesting wine.
One last important note. Try the Cayuga White every place you go. You’ll also find this grape listed on every good wine list in the region. It was created through an experiment by Cornell students in Geneva years ago and this region is, as far as I know, the only place you can find it. Cayuga White tastes like a riesling, but a bit drier. Some grapes are transformed into an easy-to-drink sparkling wine. I once forced a lady seated next to me at my favorite wine bar (Just a Taste, N. Aurora Street, Ithaca) to order a glass because, like I always preach, “It’s what the locals drink!”
